Paps Voltage drop solved.

Paps Voltage drop solved.
I was only getting 3.2v under load with a freshly charged (4.2v) IMR.
This loss was finally tracked to the puny hotspring.
I inserted some Brass bar from my local hobby shop into a battery drill and spun it up to machine it to fit into the spring sleeve in the Paps. I use a file for the first stage and then with 250grit sandpaper then 1200grit to finish before polishing.
The 18350and 18500 batteries required slightly different length posts, so I made one for each.
I used a very short cut section (about two turns) of the original hotspring to create some give/spring when tightening the endcaps of the Paps.
I am aware of the risk of not having a hotsping in line and only run this with genesis setup the are rock solid, and only ever with IMR safe chemistry batteries, I still reinstall an original hotspring when setting up new coils and if I am in ANY doubt of the stability of my setup then again, I use the standard hotspring.
Result: I now get 3.85-3.9v under load with a 0.7 Ohm coil.
I am happy, but ever vigilant due to the lack of the safety the hotsping provided.

 

Close up of the posts

 

that's very clever and the workmanship looks great.
Does the ohms of a coil change the amount of volts that you are reading?
I have been checking the volts of my setups and find that the maximum that I have gotten is 3.2 and I don't have any springs in my mod only magnets.

 

To be honest I'm not sure how much difference the Ohms make, but the lower the ohms the more amps will be drawn from the battery, so it probably comes down to the ability of the battery you are using to maintain delivery of the required amps, all I can say is even the 18350s are rocking my 0.7ohm DId now, just not for that long a run-time compared to the 18500s.
i have modded the switch end of my Paps also:http://forums.canukvapers.com/general-e-cig-discussion/7796-paps-voltage-drop-2.html#post138708 , and although this seemed to be part of the answer, it only really improves the consistency of firing, and not the voltage flow, now I have consistency and power.
All mech mods have some internal resistance, (the Paps is supposed to have one of the lowest) and this can affect voltage output, I measured every stage of my Paps switch to tube, contact to contact etc, to try and find the problem, cleaned everything to a polished finish, but the biggest win was the spring replacement. I suppose every aspect plays it's part in the end, but once you have found the main restrictions cleaning is the only real maintenance left to do regularly.

 

I've noticed this voltage drop aswell when using the springs. I now use magnets instead and it seems to of solved it.

 

I've heard others say about magnets neo, however,( not trying to be facetious here)
A. Are they as conductive as a solid brass post that is a snug fit inside the spring sleeve?
B. Do they have any give in them to make screwing the endcaps up flush possible without crushing the battery terminals.
C. and where can you buy them and in what sizes, and how much are they ?

 

D. Do you have a picture??

 

Conductive as solid brass? yes. Rare earth magnets are but not THROUGH the battery only around it.
Do the end caps screw on properly? Yes I use a 10mm one and a 2mm one.
Where do you buy them? Ebay for the 2mm ones and jaycar for the 10mm one but it's cheaper just to buy from ebay as jaycar are a rip off.
I've also only tried it with 18500 batteries so far as I don't have the 18650 or 18800 tube. So the distance between the top cap and the battery nipple might vary between those tubes. It might also vary between brand of batteries as I'm using Efest batteries not AW.

I recommend just buying a 100 pack of 1mm ones and stacking the magnets till you find the right distance.


Do I have a pic? Nope