Best Method To Recoil Genesis Atty

I fail to see how that won't short out between wick & coil...

 

Be.comse the only place the coil touches the wick is on the top part of the coil. The rest of the wick doesn't come in to contact with it.
I've been wanting to try it but the only thing I "own" that it will work well on is the Line and that's off for repair.

 

Hope this is the right place to post this.

I got a G-Bell thanks to Larry Splashback today and set up my first ss wick. It took me 3 attemps to get it going after popping a couple of coils. I had to oxidise it about 4-5 times until it worked. A few desperate calls to Larry and a few pokes at the coil and it fired up. Probably havent rolled enough length of SS 400 mesh into the wick, but I can see and taste the appeal of them already. Nice. It is 1.7 ohms.

It was straightforward with a bit of playing around at the end, but Zen and igetchas videos are a good recipie.
Could someone give me a hint as to what length the ss should be before rolling it, ie. how many rolls to make, or how thick it should be 9 how thin the middle hole should be?

Thanks Larry and looks pretty good on the mini provari.

View attachment 3839 View attachment 3840

 

Didn't like the juice in my DID and the bloody clear window cracked so I removed cleaned put the SS tank on re torched the old wick recoiled tweaked and refilled happy days getting better at this shit... Love it!!!

 

I got my Gbell today rolled a wick 35mm high and about 45mm wide , hole as small as possible, wick as fat as possible, but that's with 500 mesh.

With 400 I have a slightly bigger hole but still as fat as possible to fit the hole, more mesh = better wicking I think.

Other may do it differently though?

Does look good on the provari.

 

Thank you very much everyone for your contribution in this thread and help others that might have problems with setting up their genesis. We all know to set up genesis that works for you is personal reference, but sharing successful knowledge and experiences will definitely help others one way or the other.

Cheers all...

 

Thanks for those measurements. I only have 400 mesh and I reckon I stuff a little more in there as there is quite a gap in the 'tube'.
So an almost solid SS wick will wick better?

 

One would think that more mesh = better wicking as more material to soak it up, the higher the mesh # the better it wicks, but if your mesh isnt wicking great you will need to tip it to get gravitational flow that's what the hole in the middle is for so the juice can flow along the hole in the mesh.

At least that is my understanding... sure someone will weigh in if they don't agree.

I have a solid 500# wick in one of my other gennies and it wicks amazingly well, and that's with bobas in it.

 

hmm, has anyone tried that method yet .. i like the idea but if it shorts its a waste of time

I had major dramas with my first fat wick attempt yesterday (the one i was frigging with on the hangout) shorting ALL the time. I thought it was 325 mesh but I now reckon it was the next coarser than that 250 ? After an hour I gave up, made one the same size with 400 and it worked first go, only issue .. it sucks, puts out lots of vapour ... I was running it at 11.5W .. but very little flavour and virtually no TH.

 

Spot on AdamT...

 

interesting....in mother russia, wick oxidises you...

 

Tried this on the Phoenix XL Rebuildable and its working a treat was quick and easy only oxidised once after the rolling...

 

I had a go at this on one of the didnts/chids last night, wrapped coil on a 3.2mm drill bit, about 7 turns, 3.5Ω .. its easy to shape the coil when its red hot, also easy to mishape it. kind of fun actually.

rolled a 25mm wide #400 on a large drawing up needle, but I did oxidise with blow torch then burnt juice 3 times.

jurys out, i am still running it in at around 6.5W and 4.5v. I did get shorts but they are not so terminal with 7 turns.

its very loose with the juice, tipping it up and juice will drip out of the wick centre, more experiments needed.

as we all love new tools and toys ..
I was in a hangout with a american called Walt last night, he swears by one of these to hold the kanthal .. http://www.flyworld.com.com/view/bobbin-holders/

ebay 'fly fishing bobbin' brings up all sorts. looks like just the thing for holding wire.

another hint he had .. cut the wick bottom in half lengthways before fitting to tank, he reckons wicking is improved heaps and it removes every bit left in the tank.

 

Love some of the info in this thread, great info guys.

I lashed out last night and bought a DID - was wondering "how the hell do I stop the wick from touching the bottom yet keep it stable?" . Seemed NQR when I saw it, glad it's not true if your wick is properly oxidised.

Gotta say, though, watching the Zen video, Santa's vapour production seems a bit low. Some good tips in it though.

 

I like the sound of that, will have to give it a try on one of my next rebuilds. My next rebuild will be using metafoam, after that I will give this a shot.

 

Okay, I just did a rebuild but my wick was fine so I didn't use the metafoam. Rather, I cut a slit on one side of the wick lenthways allowing it to open up, much like the straws you get in a slushie thick shake. Putting it in the hole pushed it together a bit but I rotated it and it's opened up reasonably well. Can't say too much for the wicking just yet as I'm only 1/3 through a tank but it seems to be keeping up a bit better with consecutive hits. I will report back on its efficacy tomorrow.

 

Seen this Metafoam mentioned a couple of times.. has anyone got a wick running off it yet?

Been looking at wick alternatives for something different - also noticed there is Melafoam too:

The Product

Melafoam is a kind of low density, open-cell, flexible foam made of melamine resin, a thermo set polymer. with its outstanding flame resistance, heat insulation and soundproofing, it can be broadly applied in any area that needs sound absorbing, noise controlling and heat insulating such as construction, industry, transportation, aviation, machinery etc. Melafoam stays flexible at low temperatures and has a excellent abrasive characteristics.

Main 6 characteristics of the product

1. High flame resistance. Tested to CN tandard GB 8624-2006/B-s2, d0, t2 level (equal to German DIN 4102 B1 level and Americas UL 94-96V-0 level) in flame proofing without any flame proofing agents. When subjected to open flame, it will form a layer of coke on the surface obstructing continued burning producing no liquid or poisonous gas or smoke. Melafoam will self extinguish.

2. High sound absorption. with 95% open-cell, sound waves can easily enter the inner part of the Melafoam and absorbed in the vibration of the fiber net. Re-radiation is also prevented.

3. Good heat insulation. The 3D fiber grid net construction of Melafoam effectively blocks heat transmitting air movement, due to its 95% open-cell properties.

4. High resistance of high temperature. Suitable for long-term working in 200-240 Celsius. No breaking down or deformation under 400 Celsius.

5. Low density. The density of the product is 4-12kg per cubic meter; The lightest foam plastic available.

6. Safe, hygienic, and non-poisonous. Stable formation and chemical construction has special chemical stabilization properties. Melafoam can be applied to all interior applications including commercial, industrial, transportation and domestic.

Hmmm..

 

Not such a big fan .... bear in mind its all about the dosage , but remember the Milk Crisis a few years back in China .... that was Melamine !

Melamine is combined with formaldehyde to produce melamine resin, a very durable thermosetting plastic used in Formica™


Toxicity

Melamine is described as being "Harmful if swallowed, inhaled or absorbed through the skin. Chronic exposure may .comse cancer or reproductive damage. Eye, skin and respiratory irritant.” However, the short-term lethal dose is on a par with common table salt with an LD50 of more than 3 grams per kilogram of bodyweight.[14] U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) scientists explained that when melamine and cyanuric acid are absorbed into the bloodstream, they concentrate and interact in the urine-filled renal microtubules, then crystallize and form large numbers of round, yellow crystals, which in turn block and damage the renal cells that line the tubes, .comsing the kidneys to malfunction.[15]

The European Union set a standard for acceptable human consumption (Tolerable Daily Intake) of melamine at 0.5 milligrams per kg of body mass (reduced to 0.2 mg per kg in April 2010),[16] Canada declared a limit of 0.35 mg and the US FDA’s limit was put at 0.63 mg, but was later reduced to 0.063 mg daily. The World Health Organization’s food safety director estimated that the amount of melamine a person could stand per day without incurring a bigger health risk, the "tolerable daily intake" (TDI), was 0.2 mg per kg of body mass.[17]
Acute toxicity

Melamine is reported to have an oral LD50 of 3248 mg/kg based on rat data. It is also an irritant when inhaled or in contact with the skin or eyes. The reported dermal LD50 is >1000 mg/kg for rabbits.[18] A study by USSR researchers in the 1980s suggested that melamine cyanurate, commonly used as a fire retardant,[19] could be more toxic than either melamine or cyanuric acid alone.[20] For rats and mice, the reported LD50 for melamine cyanurate was 4.1 g/kg (given inside the stomach) and 3.5 g/kg (via inhalation), compared to 6.0 and 4.3 g/kg for melamine and 7.7 and 3.4 g/kg for cyanuric acid, respectively.

A toxicology study in animals conducted after recalls of contaminated pet food concluded that the combination of melamine and cyanuric acid in diet does lead to acute renal failure in cats.[21] A 2008 study produced similar experimental results in rats and characterized the melamine and cyanuric acid in contaminated pet food from the 2007 outbreak.[22] A 2010 study from Lanzhou University attributed renal failure in humans to uric acid stone accumulation after ingestion of melamine resulting in a rapid aggradation of metabolites such as cyanuric acid diamide (ammeline) and cyanuric acid.[23]
Chronic toxicity

Ingestion of melamine may lead to reproductive damage, or bladder or kidney stones, which can lead to bladder cancer.[18][24][25][26][27]

A study in 1953 reported that dogs fed 3% melamine for a year had the following changes in their urine: (1) reduced specific gravity, (2) increased output, (3) melamine crystalluria, and (4) protein and occult blood.[28]

A survey commissioned by the American Association of Veterinary Laboratory Diagnosticians suggested that crystals formed in the kidneys when melamine combined with cyanuric acid, "don't dissolve easily. They go away slowly, if at all, so there is the potential for chronic toxicity."[29][30][31]

 

Oh dear - yep I'll pass on the crystals in my renal tubes..

Thanks for the info FM.

 

Bullos was asking me a few questions on the rollie paper method, etc.. so I gave him my full method for rebuilding. I figured as I spent the time writing it, there's no point in it only being seen by one person.
So I thought I would post it up here.

Bear in mind this is simply my method and what works best for me.
Everyone has their own method, some varying slightly, some completely different.
Just do what works for you, if this works for you great! If you tweak things to make this work for you, that's just as great!


This is my current method of preparing a wick and rebuilding using the rollie paper method:

1. First, you need to measure the height your wick needs to be. Measure from the base of the tank to the top of the centre post and add about 2mm to this for your length of mesh. The wick hole diameter will determine the width of the piece of mesh you use. A good rule of thumb is 1cm of mesh per 1mm wick hole diameter.

2. Cut your mesh to the desired size, roll it around a filling needle and keep checking until it fits snugly, but not tightly, in to the wick hole.

3. Remove the needle and cut an end at a 45 degree angle.

4. Heat one half of the mesh using a blow torch for about 6-10 seconds. Dip in water immediately, Heat again for 6-10s , allow to cool slightly, dip in water, heat again and allow to cool naturally. (This will be 3 heatings in total)

5. Repeat step 3 on the other half. After, check to see if the wick still fits in the hole. If it doesn't, roll it in your fingers a little more until it fits snugly once more.

6. Soak the wick in PG and light the wick on fire, do this 3 times as well. If you want, you can work on each half of the wick to make it easier.

7. Put the wick in to the wick hole with the angled cut end in the tank. I usually make sure it's just not touching the bottom, not so much to eliminate shorts but more so to allow juice to flow underneath and give better wicking. Cut a piece of paper tall enough to cover from the base of the wick hole to the top of the wick, the width of the paper should be enough to go around the wick 1 1/2 times.

8. Pull your wick out, put a few drops of PG/juice on the top end of the wick and wrap the rollie paper around it as tight as possible.

9. Attach your wire to the lower/negative screw/terminal. Pop your wick in and wrap your coil, attaching it to the centre/positive post/terminal. When wrapping your coil, don't rotate your hand holding the wire around the atomiser, rather, rotate the atomiser and keep your hand holding the wire as stationary as possible. The hand holding the wire should only move up to get over the centre post and while doing so, hold the wire against the wick using your thumb.

10. Fill up your tank and start vaping!

11. After you've vaped 1mL or so of juice, remove the juice and dry burn off the paper (hold down the fire button until the coil glows red). Do this in 5 second pulses and blow on the wick quickly when not firing the atomiser to allow the paper to burn. Once all/most of the paper has burnt off, blow the ash off. You now have a short free, perfectly coiled genesis atomiser.


Seems like it's a bit of work but there's really not too much to it. This is the quickest (in the long run as you don't get shorts) and easiest way to recoil a genny IMO. Should only take you 10mins and you'll soon get faster at it.