Well, I got bored this afternnon so I threw together another boxmod. This one is made of a 2-AAA box and is MOSFET controlled. I used the same wiring plan that I have been using on my touch switch mods, but this time, due to the very limited amount of space available, I used a round 100g tactile switch (MV) in lieu of touch pads. Of course, being a FET-controlled device, I used a bicolored 3mm LED, green for master on, red for vaping. As you can see, the components are not yet hot-glued in. My granddaughter borrowed the glue gun and hasn't returned it. I'm thinking of getting a mini gun anyway, they have a lot smalled nozzles and you can be more accurate with your glue job. Anyway, it's the smallest boxmod I have ever made (1X2.5x.625 inches) and it works great, though I do understand that 10440 batteries need much more often charging than the 14500's I usually employ. Hope you like it, I sure do Papa Bear, Mama Bear and Baby Bear With the guts hanging out Easily Palmable for stealth action A regular little vaping machine
Ok, I know I'm about to derail this thread, but you seem to know a lot about mosfets. I have a kvs-510n ( a 18650 tube mod) that uses a mosfet and has a button like an ego that blinks when the battery is done. the issue I'm having is with a cisco 1.5 ohm 306 atty. when I take a drag it seems to work fine but when I let off the switch is blinks 5 or 6 times. It works fine after that and it works with no issues using a 1.7 ohm atty. Anyway, I guess what I'm asking is, is the blinking light telling me I'm hurting the circuitry by using too low resistance? Is that possible? If anyone else has any advice I would welcome it. Thanks!
I looked up customer feedbacks on the KVS-510N and one person said the light flashes when the battery is low. I assume, then, that the problem is that you are using too low a resistance atty for the circuit, so it is warning you that your 1.5 is overloading the circuit. I think I would stick to the 1.7, perhaps the new dual-element carto would work too ?????.
That's about what I thought. I'm surprised there is that much difference between the performance of the 1.5 and the 1.7. I mean, we're talking about 2 tenths of an ohm. It doesn't seem like that much. It's too bad I have a ton of cisco 1.5 attys. Guess I'll just have to use them on the old ego. Thanks for your reply and I love all your mods. You sure get a lot of bang for your buck. I wish I was better at all that electrical shit. Happy vaping!
Absolutely I agree. 3.7V / 1.5 Ohms = about 2.5 amps ... 3.7V / 1.7 Ohms = 2.18 amps ... assuming your mod is running a 2 amp MOSFET, the 1.7 atty would probably work alright, whereas a 1.5 atty would be running the MOSFET at 25% over rated capacity. To avoid this problem, build your own mod and either use a 3-amp horn switch or a MOSFET with a higher load capacity. For instance, this mod uses an IRLZ34N mosfet, rated at 21 amps continuous, 30 amp max at up to 55VDC. In my mini boxmod, we are only talking about 3.7/2.4=1.54 amp .. the mosfet runs cool and should last longer than I do Of course, since yours is a commercially-made mod, I think I would drop the mfr a note and ask about LR attys and find out what the lowest they would recommend.
