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eGo-T vs eGo-A

Discussion in 'Vape Modding and Technical' started by RAWR!, Aug 25, 2015.

  1. RAWR!

    RAWR! New Member

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    Sorry for grammar, this is a summary.

    I thought they may be the same internally, they aren't.

    My T died after half a dozen tanks and I thought I'd see why. It was down to under 1.5Ω.

    pulled plate and spike off fairly easily with forceps. nothing to see, heater is in a little black pool of gunge, only used dekang flavours in this particular atty, not used it a lot as it was my backup. My other one has started to be not satisfying somehow though.
    Surprised at the build up.
    Wick is still in good condition, not stuck to heater.

    Trying to get the heater assembly out the bottom is impossible, nothing to grip bar the thread itself, the slots are actually in the cast part holding the connector and heater etc.
    Couldn't turn it, bash it out from the top .. ended up dremeling a small slot to peel back a corner of the stainless at the base. Heater came out ..

    So I then grabbed a type A atty, debridged it and removed excess metal wicking stuff, the cup for the A heater is maybe twice the diameter of the tanks heater. hopes drop, top plate of the tank atty floats around inside, further investigate T assembly and a steel shroud around the outside of the heater sits proud by 0.5mm or so and the plate sits inside this shroud.

    assembled the spike plate onto a tank, pushed into the A atty as far as it would go, tank sat 2mm further out than normal. vaped and got a fair amount of air around the top, wrapped a rubber band around the groove between tank and atty and tried again.
    It was awesome, very clean strong flavour with lots of vapour. dekang C.Cola .. tasted like coke !
    Running at 4.2V on the provari soon got a bit burnt taste, dropped to 3.7, wicks fine.
    Tired it with and without rubber band and I think flavour improves with access to some air mixed with the vapour. Maybe a vent hole in the side of the atty between heater and tank could be an experiment.

    Vaped like this for half a tank as I couldn't put it down by far the best vape I have had in some time, possibly ever.

    It started to lose its zing after a bit so I moved on..

    experiment .. tank with a 10mm section of clearo wick doubled up and loosely sat in hole. Tank put on A with no spike fitted .. looking at it I suspect base of tank is sitting on top of the heater cup. Tank is a very tight fit in A atty top hole.

    vaped surprisingly well, but got a bit of juice in the top of the tank after 10 minutes of giving it a hard time. I think not as good as previous with the tank spike/wick in place, may have just been too wet tho.
    easily coped with 4.2v this time.

    I really think these T attys get a good amount of vapour by not over wetting the heater. something in these ego attys is killing flavour, I suspect its either the amount of metal mesh in contact with the juice or maybe that all of the airflow passes through the heater. May be a case to experiment with a small controlled airleak, maybe flavours come out if oxidised or less saturated, nfi.

    Just a few thoughts to mull over ..

    out.
     
  2. Freakazzoid86

    Freakazzoid86 New Member

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    Thanx.
    That could explain the probs I am having with my T.
    Got thru about half tank of dekang cappuccino (half 18mg,half 11mg)Found vaping became less.
    Cleaned atty got back to full vape.Half tank same thing.This time I put another tank with grape 18mg a couple of puffs
    and was vaping fine.Was posted on another forum it may be a viscosity problem which may add weight to your discovery of the gunk pooling.
    I get constantly good vape from grape but not cappuccino.
     
  3. Super Jesus

    Super Jesus New Member

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    I think the gunk pools as there is simply no way for anything to be flushed out short of removing the top spike plate.
    With a bit of care its quite removable though I wouldn't try it unless the atty is pretty much fubar without doing it.
    that reveals the top of the heater .. i took some videos. will edit it up later, a lot is out of focus etc :)
     
  4. bored

    bored New Member

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    I did put atty in boiling water,soak for 10 mins.Blow it thru from battery end then repeat and left to dry 24 hours there was a little gunk in
    water bowl It still works fine full vape.I will buy some spare attys soon.
     
  5. Kelsey

    Kelsey New Member

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    Interesting stuff Stoney. I am going to point my supplier to this thread - they need to get it to Joyetech so they can address the issue. I know there has been some work being done, but this is good info!
     
  6. twitege

    twitege New Member

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    Goood grief, this is all too technical for a old chook like me, but sounds like a bit of a problem and would be good if it was fixed
     
  7. bmrrsts97a

    bmrrsts97a New Member

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    One of my T attys has been under performing for a few days now, poor vapor and flavour (worse than normal). Seeing this thread I decided to have a go at giving one a full clean with a combination of methods picked up from here, ECF and youtube.

    1. Remove the spike. I couldn't dig up anything small enough with a hook to get under the plate but it looks pretty solid.
    I took a small flat blade screwdriver and pushed the spike to the side using the top of the cone as leverage. Popped right off, no damage.

    2. Cleaning the coil. I see what you mean about the gunk on there, I'd been using some JW but mostly Dekang. I was trying to avoid clogging up the coil, perhaps with the design of these, it will clog up fairly quickly regardless of the juice used.
    For this I used the Janty recommended method. Short version, rinse under hot water, blow out from both ends and then dry burn on a 3.7 device 4 times (hold button down until cut-off) while blowing on the atty.

    3. Cleaning the wick. Before I looked at the coil, the first thing I noticed was how "burnt" the wick was. Somebody on ECF pointed out that this isn't the wick burnt, but the juice left on there.
    Take a cigarette lighter (remember those?) and burn the wick. I held the spike in a pair of pliers, put the wick in the flame and let the old crusty juice burn off. I did this a few times and it was nearly white when I was done.

    4. Putting it back together. I've seen a video of somebody using tweezers to put the plate back in and it took them a few goes to get it back in, they didn't have a good grip on the spike.
    I had a look at a tank and the hole that the spike goes into, looks about right. I put the tank onto the spike, lined up the long side of the plate with the coil and pushed it on. Took a little bit of force but I heard a nice satisfying click. Removed the tank and the spike stayed in place.
    Then I took an empty 510 cart, put the side where the filler goes over the spike and gave it a few taps with the handle of a screwdriver.

    Put on a full tank, gave it a few primer pulls to get some juice in there.
    First vape, just like new. I've only put one tank through it since, but so far no leaks, no dry hits and taste back to as new.

    All up it took about 15 minutes. YMMV and I can only assume disassembly would void your warranty and frequent removal of the plate/spike will eventually .comse leaks
     
  8. optorbbum

    optorbbum New Member

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    Nice work Lothar, I used some forceps to remove, couldn't grip the edges with it as the hole at the top is too narrow, but poking sideways dislodges it and then it can be gripped on the spike.
    I wouldn't be too worried about the tube the plate pushes into, that stuff is tough, its not spring steel tough though, I have warped mine with sideways gripping with vice grips trying to seperate it from the base of the atty, its another dremel job to get it further apart.

    Not going in straight with the spike plate could be a problem as a sideways plate could mangle the ceramic,heater or mesh in behind it.
    I think how you did it would be pretty foolproof though, there is no real space for it to go anywhere but on.

    oh.. and for the record .. i reckon i invented the flame clean, unless someone finds a comment on it before may or june 2010 :)
    everyone back then was "oh no the wicks melt, remove the bridge" .. i put one to a lighter to see what I was dealing with. then replied to the moron on youtube who was telling everyone it was nylon and melted. who STILL dissed it, I told him to try it himself, nope, no need he says, he can see its all burnt, then maybe his where a different atty.
    his video stlll stays there to successfully confuse noobs and the fallacies continue.
    The human race loses another IQ point on average and 'Idiocracy' remains one of my favourite movies.

    How some people can stick to their convictions in the face of overwhelming evidence to the contrary is beyond me.
     
  9. tessenja

    tessenja New Member

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    Thanks Lothar - the push the spike over trick worked for me. I've been trying to get the damn atties apart for days!

    Now to see if I can resurrect these flooding atties...
     
  10. eszxiwf2c

    eszxiwf2c New Member

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    Great post Lothar, I think this needs to be stickied under cleaning and repairing of Ego T attys. There's alot of people that could use this info and in a sticky it will be easier to find.

    Del

    PS.... I have copied, given credit where due and stickied :D
     
  11. xxgetbzz

    xxgetbzz New Member

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  12. Ryanstar123

    Ryanstar123 New Member

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    stoney what is the atty out of....waiting to get excess parts so i can pull apart the ego-t for a look. BTW...couldnt get any.comdio when playing the vid
     
  13. bapatrickmhulzeay371

    bapatrickmhulzeay371 New Member

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    i muted the.comdio .. i was quiet and all you could hear was my breathing and it sounded creepy like a heavy phone breather.

    there where 2 attys in a dismantled state, an ego-t and and an ego-a.
     
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