eGo battery not firing? (Fix)

My eGo batteries are getting on a bit and have taken a number of tumbles over that time. I had one recently that, although the button would light up when pressed, the atty wouldn't fire. I found that tapping the end of the battery on the desk would get it working again most of the time, but sometimes the vape would be lower than normal and the bottom end of the batt got warm - classic sign of a bad connection.

NOTE:' This is for genuine Joye eGo batteries, Riva and other "eGo style" batts may not be the same.

You will need: Tape, Pliers, Soldering Iron and Solder.

Firstly to get the batt apart.

Wrap some tape around the case to protect it, just below the button section, - masking tape works fine.



Then, with your pliers right up next to (but not touching) the button section, squeeze gently and release. Rotate the battery 45 degrees, squeeze & release. Repeat this all the way around the case. This should "crack" the seal that holds the case on.



You should now be able to work the button section out of the case with your hands.



Go easy though as there is a thin wire from the atty connection to the board which could be ripped off easily.
Keep an eye out for the clear plastic button as it will fall out while you're getting it all apart.



The case should then just slide off to expose the rest of the circuit board and the battery, and also reveal the non-firing issue.
If you have a look into the case you will see solder in the bottom, we just need to remake the solid connection between it and the battery.



Get your soldering iron fired up then build up some solder on the negative battery connection, you need a nice blob of solder that sits up. Be careful not to dislodge the wire already attached though.



Slide the battery back into the case.
Holding the case vertical, place your iron on the bottom. This will transfer heat into the joint and melt the solder on both the inside of the case and the end of the battery - how long you leave it there is up to your iron.. Try 5 seconds then let it cool - if the batt slides out then go for a bit longer.



Once the battery is firmly fixed, you can put it all back together.
With the button hole facing down, sit the button inside - it can only go in one way, ie: the flat edge goes toward the atty connector.
Slide the assembly back into the case and firmly press the 2 together - a small amount of super glue on the fitting pieces is optional, I didn't bother just in case I wanted to get it apart again easily but I'm also also mindful that it isn't glued.



Screw on an atty or carto and test. Provided you didn't over do it with the iron you should be good to vape on!

 

Thanks for that Mildew, really good how too and great pics.
RC

 

it does depend on the failure too, mine failed be.comse of poor PCB SMD's (cheap resistors), I pretty much did (months ago) the same sort of thing as posted here but it didn't help. The led would start glowing on its own, and it stopped delivering power to the atty altogether.

I can see though, how often the problems normally .comsed by the earth solder and wire, so this advice should still help fix most peoples battery trouble.

 

Had the same problem though i boke it more as opposed to fixed it.. (I used a hacksaw) mine failed from the poor PCB also, shorted out and burnt the PCB, noticed though they are not technically batteries, its a capacitor made of electolytic fluid with a small sheet of insultation between the conductor.. Jst thought id mention it as it means you dont have to fully discharge it to recharge it again the same way you would a lithium-ion.. And note too the electrolytic fuild is highly toxic and carcnogenic.. Thanks for the tip, will try with another of mine thats heating on the bottom.

 

I'm not up with battery chemistry so I wont dispute what you found, could be a form of Li-Poly? But a capacitor, it aint..
Li-Ion do not suffer from memory effect issues.

 

awesome work Mil, I had one doing this and pulled it to bits to have a look before you posted this .. now I have two doing it, as I put it back together with the intention of soldering it later and not done it yet .. then realised that I had pulled apart the wrong one and .comsed the same problem with it .. doh!

 

Finally got round to fixing these two. The wire to the base was broken in one, getting hot on the bottom. Pulled apart the wrong battery and broke the wire on the second one.
Both had about a half inch of thin wire conected to the battery.
The one that had the original overheating base problem had a blackened wire that would not take solder at all. I ended up snipping it off and attaching another half inch of wire.

How I did mine was too hold the battery case in a small vice loosely up the top .. it conducts heat very well, can't hold onto it to do this.
I then tinned the small wire with a little fresh solder, heated the bottom of the battery case with the iron while feeding a straightened out 3 inch length of solder into the open end of the battery .. once it was hot enough to melt, without removing the iron from the bottom .. used free hand to slide the battery back in. Had the little wire nice and centrally placed. pushed down until the switch assembly just touched the top of the battery, removed iron and waited a few seconds.
Then lifted the battery in the vice to get the heat out of the case. test tug on battery showed it was not connected. tapped the switch into position using a small pair of pliers as a little hammer.
Both working a treat now.

oh, reason I did it this way, was using a small weller PCB type iron, there is no way I could have got enough heat into the base with the battery in situ. Was a bit nervous about over heating the battery too.
Had a bit of solder attached to the base after this, was easily shaved back with a sharp pocket knife. fun actually, i like shaving solder.

now I have 7 eGo batterys running ..