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Easy way to clean Ego clear tanks and carts

Discussion in 'Vape Modding and Technical' started by audkovask, Sep 19, 2015.

  1. audkovask

    audkovask New Member

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    Hi folks

    This is aimed at all the people who are running the clear ce2 type tanks and cartomizers. Looking around the forums there are a few ways to clean and renovate these. All the ways I have seen involves separating the plastic tube from the connection. A fair few of these assembly’s are constructed of the hard type plastic, where separating them runs the risk of breakage, or at the very least, leaks when reassembled.

    I am back overseas, and have with me two ego-w’s. the tanks are a soft polythene type of material, which will stand a certain amount of misuse and dissembling. They were in need of cleaning due to the vape tasting very bitter, and the wicks resembling dark brown shoe laces!!! I am sure we have all been there?

    As they are my only two tanks, I decided to attempt to just wash them out. This was done via the filling hole with a syringe. First sucked out all the juice. Then loaded the syringe with isopropyl and ¾ filled the tank. Shook it around for a while then sucked the stuff out. Another dose, same procedure, and sucked it out. Next step was to flush out with warm water.

    The wick and coil were still looking pretty sad, so filled the syringe with Hydrogen Peroxide and a drop of warm water. Squirted this in shook it up and left it to soak upside down for half an hour. Upside down so the coil could get a good dose, along with the wick where it passes through the coil.

    The results were as wanted. Wick was pristine white, and the coil in better condition, but not perfectly de-gunked. Where the wick passed through the coil it was white. Good enough for me!! Again flushed out everything with warm water with a last rinse with whiskey. The only stuff I had!!

    Loaded it up with Old Holbourn, and after a couple of tokes, it took off!! As good as new.

    Now I know this method is not advised for a lot of the clear carts out there, due to the alcohol, but the procedure can be adapted without the alcohol. The main element is the peroxide, and as long as its flushed a few times, it will be fine. Its used in Listerene clear mouthwash so wont be that bad!!!

    Still looking for a way to completely de-coke the coil in situ. Have some Phosphoric acid that could be dropped directly onto the coil?? Any thoughts?
     
  2. BrentTylerjkl

    BrentTylerjkl New Member

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    dry burn is still by far the most effective method i know of. so long as nothing surrounding the heater gets melted, its a perfectly adequate method.
     
  3. Incolla

    Incolla New Member

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    I tried a few dry burns, but all it seemed to do was make matters worse. Maybe I will try with all the juice out of the wick after a tank flush through.
     
  4. qylzlmzemf

    qylzlmzemf New Member

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    yeh, flushing is critical .. need just water and crud or you are likely making more crud, burn till it stops smoking and it should be ok.

    first you get water vapour come off, then a while where nothing seems to happen, then evil foul smelling smoke, after that stops .. its done.
     
  5. Sebastian M

    Sebastian M New Member

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    Thanks for that Stoney
    Next time I flush the tanks I will do that. The original intention was just to clean up the wick from its dark brown treacle color. As I said, I achieved that objective and it was the peroxide that did that. It also dissolved some of the crap on the coil, but not the stuff at each end of the coil. That might happen with a dry burn when the rest of the assembly is juice free.
     
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