Can I get a detailed list of what I need to go and buy at the thrift store lol Sent from my HTC_Amaze_4G using Tapatalk 2
Precisely. I plan to solder the twisted wires using a piece of the NR wire as solder. I know my old iron could do well over 900F, I'll see what this POS iron I have can do. Might need borax as a flux, don't have any at hand though. Hmm, what about a conductive ink polymer coating? conductive inks | silver conductive ink & paste | Tekra Corporation Don't mean to derail, just thinking out loud about using what is at hand.
I think the issue you will run into is the silver gets brittle after it has been heated to soldering tempatures.
It's dead soft .999 silver wire from RioGrande and it won't be heated that long doing a single drop solder job. We'll see...it's not really going to need tensile strength...just joining hair-fine wires. They solder dissimilar metals all the time in jewlery making, it's about the same scale as soldering a necklace clasp eh? Maybe I'm wrong, but until I get the chiOdy to know the tolerances I need, I won't know. Might try a test tomorrow though just on flow and temps with a resistance test after.
It is very similar to soldering dissimilar wires in jewelry making. For something like this it could be easily done with some soft silver solder and a butane torch, you will need to coat the silver with a flux (usually a borax paste) though, otherwise the oxide coat that builds up almost instantly on exposure to heat and air will stop the solder from flowing into the join. Although this is true of any solder join silver oxides very easily. For a solder less connection to work, in jewelry making I used to use a device a lot like the spark o matic with a grounding clip and a carbon electrode which applied the discharge.
Siver braze for air conditioner copper would work by starting on the copper wire and then putting the coil wire to it after it starts to melt. silver braze takes a lot of heat to melt. This is just a thought. Might be easier figuring how to make a arc welder. Shut up hp and go back to the shop.
So did you use the Flash board or just get a Flash Capacitor? I went ahead and got the flash board but in theory you could use a big old flash cap and a power supply. Add a few switches and you are in business.
Takes some practice on getting the weld. Capacitance size and voltage need to be tested. The higher the capacitance the lower the voltage. I made great welds with a 1000uF cap at 36v and with a 2200uF at 26v. I settled on the flash board w/ 75v and a 340uF cap. Make sure your cap voltage rating can handle the voltage put through it. Or KA-BLAM! especially be aware of polarity.
Why did I know you were gonna pretty it up? When are you gonna add a controller and make it tell you when to put the wires together?
OK I went to the shack today and got a few things I needed anyway but I got a 35V 2200uF cap, my power supply from an old laptop only puts out 18.5V so we will see how well that fairs. I can get a Step Up Board fairly cheaply and think that this would be a great way to tune the V as i can set the V going into the cap all I need to do is charge it and let it ride. If no good then I got solder, flux, and a new iron to put my flash board to use and will be getting more cameras to salvage caps very soon.
I got the bug now. I went to the shack and got a project box, a battery holder, and a few other odds and ends. Then I stopped by a pharmacy and got 5 camera from film they developed. I'm planning on going with 3 caps in parallel to start. I'm willing to bet that at some point I get a nice burn mark on this one.
It's a lot of fun to say the least. The only time I got zapped was opening up one of the 10 freebie cameras from Costco. I would suggest that the first thing you do when opening is to pull the battery and place a short across the cap before trying to pull off the board.
Successful welds one after the other. Can't be any easier. [video=youtube;6csTiN9nM00]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6csTiN9nM00[/video]
