Ok....got my "DIDN'T's" now comes the fun part.......first wick and coil I made worked ok but the vapor production was a bit poor....was a 1.7ohm coil(3/4 wrap 32awg)and using #400 mesh, thought I'd try again with the same but keep getting hot spots and won't wick......have read all the post's on here that I can find and am still having trouble.........using the rollie paper method when wrapping the coil, but still getting hot spots and breaking the coil, wick doesn't seem to be very rigid(not tight enough?).....any help from the masters would be appreciated......mesh size e.t.c Sent from my home pc using my specialized one-fingered tap-a-key typing method
My advice would be to roll your wicks as fat as you possibly can fit in the wick hole. Try 45mm length as that's the same size as the cobra, or go a lil higher if you can. Second, spend some decent amount of time oxidizing. I tend to do a mild oxidization while it's flat, roll, then spend 10-15 mins oxidizing it with a semi hot flame (air hole on the blowtorch nearly ALL the way closed), to get it mildly orange but carbon it up. Then do 5 juice quenches and burns. After this the wick should be quite rigid, make it easier to wrap you coil. Do your wraps but do not put juice in. Using a VV device, fire it on the lowest voltage you can to see for shorts/hotspots. Adjust if needed, roll up your voltage in .2's if you find another hotspot adjust the coil below it. Continue going until you reach 1-2w above your normal vaping wattage. Let it cool naturally. Put your juice in, test for any hotspots again, ensuring the wick is wet, vape and enjoy! Biggest advice i can give on coils, is try and keep them evenly spaced, and as parallel as possible (you want to avoid them being uneven in all spots). Also when adjusting the coils, do it while you are firing (advise doing this on a device that detects shorts, eg provari/lavatube/kicked mech mod, etc etc), using a needle tip thing to adjust the coils, i find them real easy to move the coils when they are close together.
What I am doing is putting the neg of coil in the hole with the wick and it works well. Also yesterday I removed 2 top nuts and cut a spring off a pen and put that in place with a washer and a top nut and it works better than those slippery little nuts, as I can now adjust the tension easily at the top of the coil. Working well at the moment. RC
Dont short cut the oxidisation process. Use Zens video method. Ie fire the mod on a ego (low voltage until all coils are glowing ), fiddle it around while firing to get them all glowing. When they are all glowing ease up the voltage a bit . If still all good fill and vape. If you cant sort it out at the start you will be able to vape it, but often it behaves incosistently and you need to keep fiddling to much. If you cant get all the coils working and are getting too many shorts, take the wick out and re oxidise some more, and use the rolly paper trick. I find that it works best fo me if all coils touch the wick but can be easily moved up and down, so are not too tight and the cutting into the mesh and through the oxidisation. Often on the top post its easy to make it too tight and you get a hot spot on the top coil. Also keep the gap between the posts and wick as small as possible, not sure if this is possible with the didn't as I dont have one. Also when it gives you the shits, put it away for a day and vape what you used to, and come back to it when you are in the right frame of mind. When i was learning I often put the thing away for days in between tries. Eventually the impossible becomes possible, and it goes from a not bad to a consistently great vape over time.
agree with everything above and can only add that i use an old well oxidized wick outer with an unoxidised mesh core.wicks very well.have bored out the wick hole to 3mm and the air hole to 1.5,this really would be better at 1.2 mm though.also i have only the nut that holds the centre post,and just wrap the kanthal around the threads.the only problem now is the crappy silicon isolator has chewed through,so will have to find a fix for that.bloody great value for $15.00.
hey FZ replacement isolator thought. Bic Pen tube (the bit that holds the ink) should be about the right size and I'm led to believe is made of PTFE, which is good grade plastic. Was thinking of using this where RC is using a spring, to create some room. just a thought D1g
might be the go digit,did think i could use shrink wrap and trim,but will prolly be to thin.i am looking at a staedler stick now.might have to warm it so it spreads over the contact bit.
cool, think the Bic's are a bit thicker and remember reading about using them as replacement bits for the Line wick hole
I used the spring not so much for more room but to be able to just slip the coil wire in and to be able to adjust the tension easily with stuffing about with those nuts which would always come loose. The pen tube sounds interesting too. RC
Prod, poke, prod, prod, poke. I'm just learning too, but I found I wasn't doing enough of this and was trying to do it without the coils hot enough. When they are cold they just spring back to wence they came, but when glowing they seem to move just enough and stay there. A mixture of Igetcha69 and Zens vids (and reading here) have help me a lot. I was getting hot spots at the top every time and prodding and poking a bit more and a little slack at the top and my last few coils have all glowed and vaped really well instead of just 1 or 2 glowing.
