Best Method To Recoil Genesis Atty

In this video from Zen there is a part that shows you the easiest way recoil. The fastest method to get rid of all the shorts and you will never....ever pop any more coil again.

Go to 2:08 - 4:42 and from 12:28 - 15:48 for the information

[video=youtube;ZxGfAmIcs70]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZxGfAmIcs70[/video]​

 

Nice, haven't seen that one yet.

Heh.. next up, building coils with santa c.coms.

 

Love the Allen key set up on the Z.

 

Yeah I've seen the video and it's not a bad one. I wouldn't call it the best method for rebuilding but I would say it's a good one.

What you can do, if you don't own a VV mod is to use an eGo or a battery with low charge.
Obviously you can't use a ProVari with a hybrid, so I usually rebuild towards the end of the day when the battery is quite low.

I still stand by the rollie paper, works every time for me. You can still get a short at the top wrap though but it's generally fixed by pushing up the top wrap.
Everyone rebuilds differently, all that matters is that it works for you.

Also, if you're using the Zen and you use it with insulator, put a needle tip in the wick. It helps to keep the wick sturdy while you rebuild it.

 

Is this the same clip as whats on vapebar thats below the 'Zap for sale' ?

 

Have to agree with Krit & the rollie paper method, everyone that I have seen post using that method has said it works flawlessly. In my own small experience, I have only used rollie paper method & had no problems at all.

 

bugzme seems to be. Very much how i got my DID + cobra working for the first time. Find the hot spots/shorts and go from there!

 

I can't see how the wick shouldn't touch the bottom of the tank!

The coil is joined to the base at the top under the screw, and the whole of the atty provides the ground for the coil all the way to the bottom of the tank!
The coil is insulated from the wick by the oxidizing process!

The video provides some solid advice on how to get the coils firing evenly, however, the issue I see written about the most, is the problem in oxidizing the wick properly in the first place!
What Zen talks about with regard to the mesh being used and the wicking properties being the same, is correct IMO, and from my own testing with different mesh the results I have found is a different flavor with the same juice!

That you should have to tip your device to have it work properly is crap!

If the wick is working properly there should be no need to tip whatsoever!
When I build a wick and do a test fire on it, I can see the wick has dried slightly, but as I watch I can see the juice moving back up the wick again, without the need to tip at all,
all through the capillary action of the wick itself!
I can give details if any are interested, most of what I see is old stuff rehashed, or this works for me, or any thing else that happens along the way that sounds good!
Good people following bad advice!

 

sure, just a few hints would be good, how tight to roll, idea of method .. i still have to tip my gennies or dry hits for me ..

i think the no touching the bottom is a joke mostly too, obviously it will make ZERO difference if the heater is insulating, however if there is a single short between heater and wick then different things will happen depending on if there is also one to the base or not.

 

Basic wick Building!

I use #grade mesh of choosing, #325 #400 #500, anything that you have!

Size, I use 80mm long by X width/height, whatever your device requires.

1: Oxidizing:
The method that works consistently well for me is to heat the mesh while it is flat!
Both sides until glowing, just insuring that the whole surface is covered, once only!
(this should eliminate any shorting if the wick touches the bottom of the tank from the centre coils)

2: Rolling:
Anything round to begin with, as an aid to starting out!
Continuing to roll until the centre begins to disappear, all but NO Central hole!
The wick will be pliant and still soft at this point, I then heat the wick again,
which will stiffen the mesh (Stiffen the wick) try for size in hole and cut to length if necessary!
Roll again to ensure the edges are not loose, I like to heat again at this point,
(only to burn off any oils from your fingers, which may taint the wick)

3: Coil:
I particularly like Zen's video tutorial on this, and urge people to watch and learn!

I have been getting consistent results from the method I use,
and if anyone gets a better result with this method when building their RBA's!
Then my jobs done!

PS. I have three DID's, Standard, Short and Mini, So I have been building my RBA's using the DID as my working model!

Happy and consistent Vaping without frustration!

 

I should mention that once the coils are all glowing to your satisfaction as per Zen's video, half fill if you like and watch the juice run up the wick to the top,
absolutely no need to tip to get juice up to the top!
I do like to keep my coils snug up to the wick, if there is a gap the energy from the coils is wasted IMO!

 

Pretty much how i have started to do mine, and tbh, this has been the method for me that has worked consistently every time. Previously only following igetcha's methods and some others that have been linked to me have failed pretty much.

 

i did my last wick very much like that .. predid it while flat and then rolled which removes a lot of the elasticity is has.
I then only gave it a quick burn once rolled, i think i will give it a much more thorough going over next time, i have noticed in flame cleaning old wicks how much more solid they get after a few heatings and coolings.
I did not quench the last one in water or juice at all, my basic metallurgy knowledge says that dunking it will keep it soft and pliable and letting it cool relatively slowly will stiffen it.
So for a stiffer wick allow it to cool off as slowly if possible, that should temper it and keep it rigid.

 

Yeah I reposted that vid somewhere to thougt there were some great tips in there. If I had not seen that vid & Phils I would not have known it was ok to tweak the coils when they are glowing this is huge!!!

 

nice vid thanks for posting

 

I did enjoy this video by Zen and certainly learnt a thing or too.

And I thought dry burn involved using a lighter on the coils after wrapping them

 

Anyone use the petar k Unoxidised "genisis" SetUp method looks interesting

www.vaporwall.com • View topic - Unoxidised "genisis" SetUp (how to)

[video=youtube;hH6ijkWgL7E]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hH6ijkWgL7E&feature=youtu.be[/video]

 

Yeah annealing should technically soften it, not stiffen it.

What I do, on the first heat I dunk directly in water, the second I shake the wick to cool it off and then dunk and the third I allow the wick to cool off naturally.
Do this on both sides, then soak in PG and light it up 3 times. Be careful, it'll shoot fireballs everywhere!
I've been making up about 10 wicks at a time so once I've done this, I let them sit in PG, wrap a bit of rollie paper on the end, chuck them in a bag and then put a few squirts of PG in there. Job done!

Then when I go to use them, I just pop the wick in, wrap the coil and start vaping. After a mL of juice I remove the juice from the tank and dry burn off the paper. Perfect coil everytime!


Stoney, you say you keep getting dry hits. I used to too, but then I started vaping with the wick facing down (on atomisers with the wick on the side) and getting a somewhat horizontal action going.
If I do this, I can hold the button down on my Orion with the cap off and even after a minute there's no hotspots. It just keeps wicking & wicking & wicking.

 

not quite dry hits, and not when horizontal, i have seen vids of people using them near upright with no (apparent) hassles.

I do the horizontal thing too, line the air hole up with the wick, (check which wick hole the air hole lines up with first, use that one) then i vape with the airhole facing down.
I know from having a clear tank previously that as the tank level drops then you can see it still no longer contacts the wick so start giving it an upside down jiggle.

now I am getting used to an SS tank (my first) learnt meself a few new tricks, i keep a 2ml syringe handy for refilling with a long drawing up needle, as I reckon the tank is getting low, as judged by the amount of angle it needs, i suck the juice up into the syringe and check the colour and quantity, if its very dark then down the drain and refill, if its not too bad then squirt back in, pop the plunger out, add a ml or so of juice to the top of the syringe and replace the plunger and squirt in, I don't like the juice when it gets too dark so this satisfys my curiosity ..

this wick is working well now, my problem was the centre nut had come loose without me noticing and it was being intermittent. ECD meter comes in handy hey
back on 8.5W and its working great at the moment.

running a premixed flavourless nic 33% VG 16mg .. when i add a ml to the syringe then at the moment, 3 drips of tobacco absolute (pre diluted) and 4 drips of VK flue cured in the ml of juice .. is good.

 

ok annealing softens steel, but we aren't doing that as the stuff definately gets stiffer and not softer .. tempering Tempering - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia is I guess whats occuring .. structural steel is above the blue .. thats certainly not annealed.

like I said, this has always been one of those black arts to me, I know enough about it to know that I know nearly nothing about it and probably never will
I guess the difference on whether you go to dull orange or bright orange is going to make all the difference. I know the blowtorch and the gas stove make a big difference, its much stiffer after blowtorching.