Mod module v1 feature discussion

I'm liking the look of the piggy backed board design.
For the switch, is it possible to have it come with wires that have connectors something like these on the ends?


Then if one set is left uncrimped, the wires can be cut to any length to fit the box for better placement of the switch & crimped by the person modding the unit. In case of a switch failure, the switch is then easy to unattach & replace.

 

lol, 6.3mm blade connectors for a mA..
overkill much.
they could be good for atty and battery connections however, might see how big they would make the thing. problem with them is massive board space, force needed to fit them and height when attached.
i was thinking of a 2 wire connector with 1.27mm pitch, i learnt from the meter though that making the boards is fine so long as labour is a minimum, the fitting of connectors added quite a bit of labour though.
chinese labour is $2.50 an hour, i will not do it for less than $60 an hour, i can make that in bed thinking when coding for others and i hate menial labour.
I built 16 units and logged the time from start to finish for all prcesses, this is reflected in the module sale price so efficiency is key.
So finding a premade lead is a must at this point or just leaving some accessible pads
these are going to be for people with a minimum skill set of knowing how to use a soldering iron, you will need one to fit a connector anyway.
I could attach wires for a price, but they would tend to snap off before the module got fitted with too much handling.

 

LOL they don't need to be that big or even that type, that was just to give you an idea.
It would be handy though to have some flexibility with switch placements, even if that meant hard wiring the switch leads onto the board with female connectors of some kind on the ends & a switch with male connectors, to save you labor costs, it would allow for being able to add extensions to the leads by the modder if more length was needed.

Oh & yeah, I know how to use a soldering iron
I just don't own one right now lol, I am looking at getting a butane fired soldering iron soon though.

 

what saves on labour costs is a couple of pcb pads with the correct pitch for either a switch or a connector or just wires soldered to it, i design it and thats it
i have no intention of supplying switches with wires attached to them.

problem with through hole pads, the hole gets full of solder and that makes it hard to use for average hobbyist (lol, especially those with butane irons) , they tend to run far too hot and damage the board tracks. SMD pads are easier to solder too but do not have the strength, especiaaly when overheated and the glue fails .. through hole pads retain structural integrity since the hole plating holds it together.
so i can see the advantage to having slide on connectors but even they are a pain to deal with, if it substantially increases the cost of the module i think taking the risk of having track damage is worth it. buy another module if you damage it.
it does make me think that doubling up on holes for important pads is important though so you have a spare in case of damage,

 

thinking i might just put a battery socket on it suitable for http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...y_nano_tech_1800mah_2S_65_130C_Lipo_Pack.html

that should easy last a day, probably 2 or more.

i am using an 11.4A output device, so peak watts around the 90W region.
might just use the balance plug though, that way i can monitor the cell volts and charge in balance mode.

 

Cheap @ $8 a throw. +1 for using the balance plug

 

Nice Stoney ,if you use the JST connectors like that I have a plethora of batteries here that would fit straight in ... I can send you one for a trial if ya want and havent got ?
or even consider the XT60 connector as they are fitted to 80 % of HK batts

 

I am assuming you noticed they were Lifepo4 batteries you linked to , which require a lifepo4 compatible charger?

edit I have the std Li-Po 7.4V not the 6.6 V Li-Fe

 

errm .. cough ..

not exactly..

 

80% of their small batteries ... but the XT60 is good for 60A. I figured Stoney would rather use a LiFePO4 chemistry than LiPO? And my chargers are LiFePO4 compatible ...

 

what .. no .. i linked a lipo ..
go look..

 

And it magically changed capacity AND connector to the XT60 ... fcuk those Turnigy's are good !

 

though the lifepo could actually be a good choice,

this is probably a better choice for a lipo, bit smaller
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__20388__Turnigy_nano_tech_950mah_2S_25_50C_Lipo_Pack.html

but the advantage of whacking the balance plug on it is that any of those packs could be used, including the lifepo.

 

I stand corrected , and so are my chargers ... but the average dude wont have them lol

 

lifepo4's are much better at sitting around too , and are more tolerant of overdischarge ... good batteries , but if you are planning on inbuilding a charging system or incorporating one , you can just set the parameters and charging becomes a non-issue?

 

you wont need a seperate charger, you will notice on my board layout there are 2 mosfets, one takes care of the charging at up to about 6A or so..

the idea is to hunt for a suitable laptop charger if i had semi fixed batterys.

 

I have several 1300 ma 2S packs and 2200 2S packs if you want me to donate one for trial purposes?

 

i haven't built a prototype suitable for balance charging yet ..
i should do a quick demo vid at the moment actually.

 

well if you need one , holler, I am much quicker at postage than HK ( and no charge , happy to donate , it might get me a break on the mod cost LOL )

 

i got some somewhere i think..
these mods should be around the $35 mark.. cheaper than the meter.