SS600 nic stability testing

LOL I didnt mean you were putting batteries in the oven !

I do mine inside joy of having a dedicated model room , but I have a concrete box and lipo bag ducted to the outside with a computer fan attached to the charger , just in case .... overkill as I have never had a lipo go off ( that I didnt want to go off anyway lol )

 

When I'm charging for normal use / testing, do the known brands inside and the China brands outside.

 

You charge the China brands outside for normal use?
You think they are that bad?

 

I've had one go off unintentionally during normal charging. Very easy to make a lot of them go off intentionally. Never been able to get a Panasonic / Sanyo to go off intentionally via excess charge / discharge current / volts.

NB : I'm not saying it's impossible

Most of the time I find no two batteries of a China Brand are the same. Sometimes you get a relatively good one, and sometimes duds. This inconsistency tells me there is poor manufacturing technique and I never know what to expect next let alone what I'm actually getting. So outside most of them go unless I know it's an ok brand.

Also, a lot of them don't have many / any safety features within them. The Jap / big brands all have safety features that are appropriate for the particular model / chemistry.

8 glass bottles, a flask, a couple of beakers and an Ouzo bottle have been in the oven for a while now. Keen to see what happens.

 

meep .. can you put your ebay store in your sig already !
i can never find it

 

supersports600 items - Get great deals on non-protected, With Solder Tabs items on eBay Stores!

 

howszat ????

 

Right .. now I can piss you off outof myeBay LOL
( oh and dont forget to work out those prices for me ) hint hint LOL

 

thats better

 

question SS .. in your travellings have you found any half decent dual 18650 battery holders that can cope with a half decent current that these batterys deserve ?
the only ones i find have the pissy little wires that melt when you do a 3A charge or just drop too any volts.

 

I wish!

No, you'll probably need to latteral welded tabs or custom build a setup for any good amount of current.

Couple of things.

IMO, they are built that way to provide a bit of fool proofing and cost saving, (weighed up btw collapseable springs with high resistance (hot springs I think they're called) and thin wires etc. plus the demand aint there for thick wires + gold or good terminals and maybe a fuse or pcm for a little bit extra cost vs the cheap shit. Sometimes I mod the cheap junk though and that may be the best option.

I haven't been following the custom mods section properly but wouldn't high resistance connections (solid and good connections) work to your advantage for a dual 18650 mod ? (all calibrated of course)

I have a question too. I reckon a capacitor in parralel with the output of a PWM mod would taste so much better. That's my new theory but I have nfi with all the types and rating of capacitors. What do you think?

 

damn, there does seem to be a shortage, I was looking at the PCM holders .. nothing has balancing built in of course..

why would high resistance work for me at all ? just a loss in efficiency for me .. not sure i get ya.

i was meaning to play with code and try all sorts of PWM frequencys at the same wattage, so far as I can tell .. I still think pwm works better than DC.
I have long held a theory that the rapid fluctuations in temperature may help 'pump' the liquid .. just based on it seems to me an ego works better than a provari at the same voltage .. but .. I think it has been a while since i played around and I probably assumed the eGo was 3.3v .. rms is actually closer to 3.5v according to the ECD, so that may well make the difference.

I don't think the thermal mass of an atty will really change much at 100Hz.

 

Could be personal preferance with flavours etc. but for me, I have always so far prefered higher duty and less pwm. (or a balance btw width, frequency / optimal input volatge) . Direct drive (DC) is no good for me but almost DC is my sweet spot. I can't quite put my finger on it, that's beyond my technical knowledge. I'm thinking I may get an oscillicope and learn a bit more (since I like stuffing around with things so much)

The higher resistance leads to it. I just think from 8.4v to the v we are using is too far for the buck methods currently used. Was thinking a small capacitor to compensate unless you can program it in. Just a small capacitor to smooth it out a bit, not to make DC as I reckon the higher peaks is cooking the juice. Maybe less amplitude. Still early days and I'm still learning but every multi battery mod I have used so far taste better to me as the batteries run down. You would only be pulling 1-2 amps, I wouldn't think there would not be much heat generated in the extra resistance or it would not be a major component of the circuit and maybe make the programming side easier. Im just thinking in laymans terms, that's all.

 

heh, leave the electronics to me
a tiny cap would do zero at these currents, a big one would stress the mosfets.
the vmax could not cope with the tiny 10uF on the input to the ecd meter, had to remove them so it did not overcurrent instantly.

 

She's all yours I reckon there's a sweet spot for the feel of the vape in there with the way the current is delivered and I reckon you'll be the one to find it

Few more hours to go with the nic in the oven.

 

Is your nic cake cooked yet?

 

Careful , there is some heated " baking " comparisons being made in the Gay marriage thread

 

Yeah, she's baked and ready.

Having a cup of coffee with the results right now and trying to figure it out a bit.

Looks like it is the plastic so far.

 

View attachment 3586 View attachment 3587 View attachment 3588

Some pics. including chopped up plastic

 

wow, thats real dark now..
I was suspecting the plastic too ... awesome, or perhaps not.