510 battery Connector

View attachment 7739 View attachment 7740 View attachment 7741 View attachment 7742 View attachment 7743 As they say, Whooo Hooo

I was looking in my toolbox, and lurking at the bottom was a 510 battery connector.

So, me being me.... I have got to put it to use. Before my lapse and return to analogues, the ego tank was really new. The 510 tank did not exist.

So the question is, are the battery connectors on a 510-T the same as the old connectors? If they are, then even bigger Whoooo Hooo.

I have just ordered a really nice antique looking corn-cob pipe off ebay. I have found a battery connector and also a sealed high current switch (1,000,000 plus operations at 24v 10A) it is a very high grade switch and I used one similar when I made my sonic screwdriver mod a few years ago... so, all bits are either here or ordered.

I am making a switch cap, and a battery holder. By using a 14250 battery, it will fit in the bowl of the pipe. I am machining a battery box out of aluminium as I type. That will be epoxy resin bonded into the pipe bowl with the wires going toward the original mothpiece. The battery connector will sit in the joint where the bolw and mouthpiece fitted together. The switch has now got a tufnol (epoxy/cotton laminate) switch cap that screws into the battery box and hides the aluminium. The only question remains, which atty to use. I like tank attys (certainly ego) and I guess I could use an adaptor to an ego fitting, but the 510 tank looks slightly slimmer and may suit the pipe style more.... So if the 510-T and the original 510 connector are the same, then I think I will order a couple of ego-T attys and a couple of 510-T attys and see where we go..... (PS, I will post pictures of the mod project.) Please note, this is a personal thing, and will not be for sale.... I just found a battery connector, and well I had to use it

 

Thats Cool!!! Post a picture for us when its done!!!:clap2:

 

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Well, the battery housing has been machined. The switch ring has been machined, the thread insert has been made. The voltage regulator chip has been fitted behind the switch, between the switch body and the positive contact (made out of copper wire and vero-board. The whole switch ring is threaded so it is only a couple of turns to get the battry out and change it. Nice and simple


All is now assembled (as in picture) I went with a 510 connector. Well I had to, if I ordered anything else, I would then have to make another mod, just to use the connector.

All soldering has been done using lead free solder.

All I need now are my atomisers, the ego adapter ring, the cartridges and my pipe to arrive.

I got the dimensions of the pipe from the supplier, so all I need to do now is wait. Once it arrives, everything just slides into place and is held with a little epoxy resin. No more machining, drilling or messing about. It should thake less than 5 minutes to assemble, and because I am going to use devcon 5 epoxy, that 5 mins should have it all cured as well, and ready to vape

The Tufnol ring around the switch should match pretty closely with the corn-cob pipe.... maybe a touch of stain will be needed, but as I have everything in my toolbox, the only cost will be the pipe (£7.50, around $10) and the atomisers (£3.60 or about $5) each.... total cost for a hand-made corn-cob pipe mod.... about $15


Can't wait

 

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This is the pipe my little battery box will fit.... I will post a video review once the pipe and the attys arrive. As long as I have got the dimensions right, it should all fit together perfectly. In fact, it should look almost original, except for the switch in the bowl.....

 

i am going to state that any 14250 batteries I have seen are not really up to the task of powering even standard resistance atomizers. the recommended discharge rate on them are really low so i must say to proceed with caution.

 

Thank you for your input. And yes you have a point.

The e-puffer uses the 14250, and gives a 2 second hit and you must wait a while before you can get a second puff a full 2 seconds long.

The euphoria of the small battery is quickly replaced by the lust I used to have for my big battery mod. However, if I am going to make a mod, well I want the life of a big battery but the smaller size so I can use a pipe to mod.

We, bits are either made or odered for the corn cob. I still have another 510 connector.

So I will make the corn-cob pipe as a practice run, and keep it as an emergency PV along side the e-puffer. Although I made in the past, varable voltage mods based on the ego-T, I always found myself ending up at or about 3.7 to4.2v therefore I used 3.7v 16550 big batteries and I could vape all day. So I could use trustfire 16350 1200mAh and it is still small enough to fit in a classic pipe body. As the stem is thrown away, it is hygenic. As the bowl is drilled out a bit, all the tar is gone. I can make a mechanical mod with ego-atties and mega tank cartriges and vap 3.7 volts all daw

Even better, I found said pipe body in a second hand shop, £2.00 the cap and main components are based on brass enclosure blanks for electrical cabinets. total cost £1.20

I found another 510 battery connector, and couple that with a 510-ego adapter ring at £1.00. The total cost of an authentic cost of a genuine mechanical mod (other than a bit of time is:-

£2.00 Pipe (Junk Shop)
£1.20 battery cap/mechanical switch in machined brass
£1.00 adapter ring
£3.60 Ego Type B Atomise
£0.20 Ego Mega Tank Cartridge
£0.00 510 Battery Connector (already owned)
£0.00 2 part-epoxy resin (Already owned) Used for securing components
£0.00 Time
£3.00 Battery (trustfire protected 3.7v price each in a pack of 2)

Total Cost £11.00 (about $17) and it would be the best of both worlds as the use of low res attys allows a bit of a kick. Very cheap and unique. I will post bits of video. But I will still practice with the corn-cob pipe.

I will show how to make a mecanical failsafe switch out of the enclosure blanking plates

I am really looking forward to both little projects.

 

Missouri Meerchaum made a "General Patton' cob that i smoked for special occasions mabe this can be fited with something more like an 18500 or so

just looked and it was the MacAurther and the general

 

Haojue makes many decent looking pipes (not real wood).


Amazon.com: Haojue

You can find them cheap on eBay. Quite a few youTubes vids, many will fit an 18350.

 

Part of this is kind of a little fun project, and partly it is through necesity I am sorry to say. I so much wanted to start the new year tobacco free, I made a terrible mistake. Don't get me wrong, I can use the e-puffer, but I made a noob mistake by rushing back in! What is worse, I made the same mistakes when I first started. I am sure I am getting senile. Money is very very tight at the moment, and a pack of tobacco is cheaper over a few days than a better e-cig. What to do, well, either way, I use the same atty, so £10 gets 2 pipes, and I get 2 unique mods for not a lot of money, but using ego attys, are conventional cheap and really quite good. With one electrical mod and one purely mechanical mod for what $30 total (as The prices above are for 1 off.... if I get 2 of eachcomponent, it only raises the cost by about $10.00 as a large chunk except the junk shop has a postl charge..... but still by choice and necessity cheap.......


(ps, I have a 16350 charger already.... influencing the cost )

 

OK, bit of an update, The battery box is now made, and I was wrong, it is a 17350 (CR2 I think they used to be called) battery box. I am quite lucky in the tools I have in my workshop (Will be nice whern finished) but unlucky in the amount of real money I have.

So the battery box will now take a CR2 battery of which I have 2x1000mAh I used to use in my 601. These each should give me a full day vaping at work, and over half a day vaping whilst driving, or watching telly.

The battery box uses a machined manual switch with linear bushings for free switch movement and also to simplify strip-down for cleaning. The battery connect is all ready to be fitted into the pipe when it comes (no sign of any of them yet) I even found an old 510 atty and have checked the functions and lo-and-behold.... vapor, and lost of it.

The switch shaft is made of 5mm precision ground chrome steel alloy with brass button and contact plate. The linear bushing is a phosphor bronze bush. The button is made from an old oxy cutting torch tip. The battery release threads are all plated for long life and also appearance..... Will post the pics later. I really am hoping the pipes arrive this weekend, then Monday I have a bit of assembly day. It works out that through machining practice, I now have a rather nice looking battery box (Although this is hidden when it is epoxied into the pipe bowl) and enough components (except battery connectors) to make 3 of them.... one at home, one in the car and one in the workshop

I have ordered 4 510 attys, 2 normal, 2 low res. I have never tried low-res, so am looking forward to it. I have also ordered some more battery connections. And of course a couple of packets of 510 tank cartridges. I do not like vaping fluff

Anyhow pics to follow, I will post the results and see what people think.

 

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Well, here are the assembly pictures for the mechanical switch..... hope this is of interest to someone..... Any comments, please let me know....

PS, my workshop is not massive, but somehow I have managed to entirely lose my epuffer..... I hope everything does arrive today, as I may have to come back and assemble the full mod if I do not find my pipe!!! :0

 

Looking forward to the pictures when finish