Hot vape spit guard

This DIY project was created out of necessity to alleviate "Spitty" juices from getting from the atty to my mouth.
Current set-up. PROVARI/ HH 357 2.0ohm and 3.0ohm hybrid 510 supplied from AvidVapor/ High drain 18650 3.7V battery.
With the standard non "longbarrel" version of the HH357 atty many have been getting, (Including myself) Funky juice kicked/spewed back into the mouth.
The HH 357 is a beast of an atty and that is really the only negative point I can make. Frustrated with the consistent juice injestion I devised a quick and easy way to fix the problem using a few parts that pair together amazingly.
Parts list:
1.1ea 810 atty (you don't mind parting with)
2. 1ea Silicone shipping cap (the ones that cover both ends of a 510 cartomizer)
3. 1ea 810 drip tip

Tools:
1. Needle nosed pliers (or equivalent)
2. Robo grip (or equivalent)
3. Dowel or screw driver
4. Wire cutters (or scissors)
3. Paper towel (or equivalent) as cushion

Steps:

1. Remove 810 connection point (threaded cap side) utilizing the pliers and Robo grips. Ensure that you use paper towel as a cushion/buffer to avoid metal to metal contact between the grips and the atomizer tube to avoid making cosmetic damage to the 810 tube. Utilize the pliers to jimmy off the 810 connection. This will take some elbow grease as the connector is often glued into place. Don't worry about the connector getting damaged. You will be scrapping it anyway.
2. After you have successfully taken of the connector you will have to push the innards of the 810 out with the dowel or screwdriver. Push down through the mouthpiece as most or all 810's are tapered at the mouth-end and take out the innards. Scrap. Clean the inside funky stuff by any means possible. I utilized a dry paper towel and inserted it through the connection end and diligently stuffed it through to give it a good scrubbing. If you have pipe cleaners that fit the size that will work too. Set your 810 tube aside.

MOST IMPORTANT STEPS: Creating the rubber seal.

Utilizing the parts I had on hand I noticed that the silicone rubber 510 carto shipping caps I had lying around fit perfectly (as they should) around any 510 sized tube.
ALSO, when mated with the 810 tube (connector end only) it created a perfect seal!! Now let's get to making that seal!!!

1. Take your 510 shipping cap and push the closed side inwards towards the open end. (Inside out but not ALL the way inside out.)
2. You will notice that the shipping cap on the inside has excess rubber in the center protruding on the closed end, use this as a point of reference. Utilized the down to get the "inside out"process started push until the "Closed end" of the shipping cap is almost flush with the "Open end" of the shipping cap.
3. You will notice that the Closed end is showing some stress discoloration where it naturally bends. There should be noticeably at least two places where it should look noticeably "Whiter" in color at opposite ends of the Closed end of the cap. Use this as your next point of reference.
4. Utilizing the discoloration points at opposite ends of the closed end that you have almost turned inside out. Use your Wire cutters or scissors to make one clean (pinching) cut from both discoloration points.
5. Push the Closed End of the shipping cap back into it's normal position.
6. You should now have an elliptic/oval hole in the Closed end of the shipping cap.

ASSEMBLE:

1. Take your newly made seal and place it over the 510 atty of your choice.
2. Assemble your 810 drip tip to the 810 tube you scavenged.
3. Place assembled 810 snuggly over the rubber seal. (THE END)

I have posted this modification for all those with parts that are ready for the garbage bin. And for all the drippers that get that Yucky surprise from overactive juices.

As a novice DIY'er this is an easy enough project. I tried to be as clear as possible as I do not want to take photos of each step. HOWEVER...Should anybody want step by step pics showing what I am describing above. Feel free to respond. Good luck and Happy Holidays to all you VAPEHEADS!!! ^,^

 

Pics are in order of sequence. (Complete project spans 3 posts)

1. Tools and parts needed to complete project View attachment 1099

2 & 3. Taking off the 801 connector end. View attachment 1100 View attachment 1101

4. Pushing the atomizer innards out. View attachment 1102

5. A glimpse inside the connector end of your now gutted 801 atty. View attachment 1103

 

6. Exploded 801 atty. View attachment 1105

7. 510 carto silicone rubber shipping cap (Closed end) View attachment 1106

8. Size comparison of 510 shipping cap and a 801 atty connector. View attachment 1107

9. 510 carto silicone rubber shipping cap (Open end) View attachment 1108

10. Almost inside out 510 carto shipping plug. View attachment 1109

 

11. Wire cutters clipping from 510 carto plug to create elliptical/oval hole View attachment 1110

12. 510 carto plug with your awesome hole in closed end. View attachment 1111

13. Exploded view of your components.
a. drip tip to 801 tube.
b. 510 rubber seal over 510 atty (elliptical/oval hole flush to top of atty)
c. Assembled 801 drip tip and tube over rubber seal and 510 atty assembly. View attachment 1112

14. Sliding the tube over the rubber seal. View attachment 1113

15. COMPLETED PROJECT!! View attachment 1114

Hope this helps clarify everything. Good luck! And keep me posted of your success's!!

 

Additional photos: Size and outcome comparison(s)

1a. Long (standard) 801 spit guard (white) next to short barrel 801 spit guard. View attachment 1115

2a. TIGHT LIKE A TIGER!!! View attachment 1116

3a. FITS LIKE A GLOVE!! View attachment 1117

4a. In order from left to right/Back to front (size comparison)
a. White 801 spit guard w/drip tip
b. Silver short 801 spit guard w/drip tip
c. 510 carto shipping cap (standing)
d. HH.357 2.0Ohm 510 on a GG TS connector cap.
e. Silver short 801 gutted tube
f. 510 carto shipping cap (laying cut) View attachment 1118

 

Thanks for the pictures! (It was a link to this post made me find this site ). I must say I've found the HH.357 very spitty - the long barrel version and the HH.357 901 version are better - I might well try this out on my remaining short barrel HH.357 which has not been much used due to it's spitty nature

 

*meh*..... I just spit back...

 

Take note prof beard. Cutting the oval shape (the way I showed) is key. Condensation and juice "spew" gets .comght on the two outer edges of the rubber seal, so as not to eventually make its way to your mouth. From experience I found that it was the accumulation and that one lucky droplet of juice that makes it to your drip tip hole that .comses the "spitty" juice phenomenon. I've been going 74 hours now and not a bad drag so far. Good luck!