So what's the deal with the 306 atties? I keep hearing people using them but what's the reason? Btw, nice little mod you've done there Mick Cheers
A 510LR and a 306LR both produce about the same amounts of Vapour. The 306LR vapour is warmer and you get more throat hit. Many seem to prefer this as it is a little closer to the harshness of smoking analogs, others prefer the 510LR's. If you prefer a 510LR to a Tank then give the 306's a go as the difference is about the same again.
Is there a difference in the position of the coil or wick? Does it wick better when bottom fed than an LR or standard atty? It seems that most atties are made to wick from the top, ie the wick sits just under the bridge and wicks down to the coil. I'm trying to find out if there are any atties that are built for bottom feeding, ie maybe has the wick running from the breath holes at the base up to the coil??? Cheers
I dont think either wick any better or worse from my experience. Don't think any atomisers are built for bottom feeders, but i haven't tried 901, 801 atomisers either.
the 306LR put out an amazing amount of vapour for a little atty, they are also really easy to clean and dry burn as the guts are almost exposed. I bought some standard 306 for use on the provari along with some 306 carts, worst decision ever.The 306 cart has to be the worst designed cart I have ever seen, almost impossible to get juice into it as the fill is so far up the tube and the air holes are level with the fill top. So one drip too many and its a juice straw. The standard 306 does not seem to put out the vapour compared to the LR either. The wick in the 306LR seems a lot larger and shorter than what a 510 has. My favourite 306 drip tip is a long clear one I got from del, being clear (ish) you can simply insert the whole dripper into the tip and see the juice dripping with no chance of missing.
yeah stoney agree the 306lr rocks but the 306 standard sucks at higher voltage, from my limited experience -ie last 2 days. Usually use 510's at 5v first time using a 306 standard today and it was disappointing, i thought it may have been a dud atty it was so whimpy comapred to a lr.clearly a different world at higher voltages with 306's. lucky only bought 2 by the sounds of things.
So what voltages would you run them at? Would the LR 306 be good at 3.7, any good high than that? Would the standard 306 be good at 6v? What's the resistance of these? 1.5 Ohm for the LR and 2.2 Ohm for the standard? I've seen the Joye HV atties are stated as 5 Ohm and some other HV's are 4.4 Ohm or something like that. If these 306's are much lower than that wouldn't they fry at those high voltages? Sorry for the off topic posts Mick, do you mind? I'm just getting into the mods and will be able to run 6v shortly so just wondering with all these options.........sometimes think I should have just stuck with the eGo and Clearo's. Cheers
First time last few days with a vv. But i have a 5v glv in and used standard and lower ohm HV's 510's be.comse i thought at high voltages i dont want the harshness of 306's and enjoyed it. I find a 306lr at 4.1 volts on the reo to be excellent too. Months ago I tried 6v and above with a HV 510 with my adjustable voltage PT, but i think around 4.2 ohms only, while it was good for vapour, the TH/heat was way too harsh for me and i decided I am not really a High voltage person. Some others here may enjoy higher voltages >5v and can comment better macca. Used a hv atty today on the VV at 6vish and again thought the same, too high for this black duck, although the vapour production went up alot compared to 5v. I was suprised at the 306 standard though at around 5vish it was no where as good as a 306 LR at 4.1v, wasn't until stoneys comments that i realised it prpabably wasn't a dud atty. But again, higher voltages >5v are not my thing, so haven't gone there often, and dont intend to go there again. I find 3.7v to 5v maximum to be my sweet spot. 4.1ish with a LR atty, and around perhaps slightly over 5v with a standard 510 and for some reason I have these EM 4.2ish ohm HV510's that work brillantly with my GLV2 5v, but other HV atties I have (4.2ohm as well i think, are totally whimpy at 5v).
LR are 1.6Ω and are great at ego type voltages, the provari runs out of puff at 3.6v or so. i think the 306LR works as good on an ego as anything else, a 3.7v mod would probaby be fine too tho it might run a little hot at the start. Not sure of the Ω of the non LR .. 2.5? maybe, more volts just didn't seem to get it right.
Hmmm, might rethink the 6v idea. I'll give it a go but I don't like a burning hot vape. If only I could find 2 short batteries under 3v to get 4v or 5v or something like that. I have a feeling the atomizer supplied with my alpha was a HV one, the package was marked for 6v not 3.7v and it does buggerall at 3.7v. I also have 2x 3v short batteries coming with the Megalodon so can try out 6v then. I keep thinking though that it's kind of a merrigoround senario, ie you go higher voltage and higher ohm but the power value stays relatively the same. For example: 2.2 Ohm at 3.7v = 6.2W to get the same power at 6v you need 5.8 Ohm. 1.5 Ohm at 3.7v = 9.1W to get the same power at 6v you need 3.95 Ohm. So basically a 4 Ohm atty at 6v should be like an LR atty at 3.7v. I can only imagine that a standard 2.2 Ohm or LR 1.5 Ohm atty at 6v would be like a blow torch. So if Ohms Law holds up what's the benefit of high voltage, is it more stable due to higher resistance at higher power? Stoney, any insight? I'm just trying to work out what the advantage is given similar power outputs, ie does it really matter what's on the left of the equals sign when the right side is the same? Maybe it's late, I'm starting to ramble on. Cheers
firstly, My provari generally is under 4.3v, i use it to trim to the correct voltage for a flavour not to get insane amounts of vape. there is maybe one advantage of HV attys on HV, simply there is more wire, so more turns wrapped around a larger amount of wick. still needs the correct voltage tho, to me VV is far more important than HV. one thing people seem to assume all the time .. just be.comse the battery voltage is X volts .. don't mean its going to get to the atty, lets do some thought experiments, draw 9W for example from 3V .. its 3A 9W from 6v is 1.5A, now assuming the same (bad) mod is used, lets throw 0.2Ω of switch resistance in, 0.1Ω for a negative battery contact, 0.1Ω for the positive and 0.1Ω for the rest of the mod, so 0.5Ω total ... (i said it was a bad mod) so your 3v battery at 3A loses 1.5V in various resistances, total is now 1.5v in the atty and your 9W drawn from the battery is now 4.5W at the atty. a 6v mod at 1.5A .. you lose 0.75V .. so 5.25V gets to the atty, lets call it 8W. i dunno exactly. but anyway .. as you can see, in a poor mod their is an advantage to HV, its the same reason power is distributed via high voltages, the copper losses are much less. I can give one example of such a mod, the indulgence is woeful at 3.7v, an ego kicks its butt at 3.2v. mostly I think its the crappy tactile switch they have used, i have 2 and have accurately measured this thing at around 0.3Ω. Also the spring contact seems quite poor. a good mod for single battery use needs good solid battery contacts, heavy duty switch and solid contact through any case joins. at 6v .. its nowhere near as important. now the provari regulates at the atty itself, but I have noticed the bottom of the case can get warm particularly with the 18650 extension on, all you lose is efficiency though, it just means the regulator runs harder to get the same voltage, more power is drawn from the battery to cope. So 3.7V on a provari is quite a bit different to using a 3.7v battery mod as the 3.7v is actually generated and monitored as opposed to maybe 3.4 getting there instead.
Ah so i am not mad. I was sure when i was quite drunk last night i was rambling on about hv things somewhere lol.
This is why i think every man and dog who vapes should have at least one provari in their arsenal. It is a great benchmark to use when comparing other PVs
